Tulip Grow Kit — 'Ile de france' Bold Red | The Bloom Boom

Tulip Grow Kit — 'Ile de france' Bold Red | The Bloom Boom

Tulip Grow Kit — 'Ile de france' Bold Red | The Bloom Boom

£17.99
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Tulip Grow Kit — 'Ile de france' Bold Red | The Bloom Boom
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£17.99


Dispatches from September

 

A pure, intense red — the classic tulip with the colour turned all the way up. 'Ile de france' is a Triumph tulip: bold, glossy scarlet goblets on strong, sturdy stems, dramatic in a pot by the door and a real showstopper in a vase.


What's in your kit

  • 12 Tulip 'Ile de France' bulbs — classic goblet-shaped Triumph tulips in an intense, glossy red
  • Comfrey pellets and seaweed meal — gentle, potassium-rich feeds that help the bulbs build up strength for next year
  • A plain English grow guide
  • Bamboo plant labels

Two things we deliberately don't include: a planter and compost. Up-cycle a container you already own — but go a decent depth for tulips (at least 25cm/10in, and just as wide) so the roots have room. Grab bags of peat-free compost and grit locally. It keeps the kit lighter, cheaper and kinder to the planet. Whatever you use, make sure it's got drainage holes in the bottom — bulbs sitting in cold, wet compost over winter is the one thing that'll finish them off.

 

Why choose this grow kit?

  • A pure, intense red — bold, classic, impossible to ignore, and a stunning cut flower for the table
  • Classic Triumph Tulip shape — sturdy, strong stems that hold their own against spring weather
  • More than a bag of bulbs — every kit includes comfrey pellets and seaweed meal, gentle, potassium-rich feeds to help your bulbs build strength for the year ahead
  • A plain-English grow guide in every kit — no jargon, no gatekeeping, everything a first-timer needs to get it right
  • Genuinely plastic-free — the bulbs, the feed and every scrap of packaging, posted plastic-free too
  • Every kit funds living wage jobs and horticultural training in Ayrshire, for people overcoming homelessness

 

The bit that matters most

Every Grow Box funds living wage jobs and horticultural training right here in Ayrshire, for people overcoming homelessness. So your pot of spring flowers does a lot more than brighten your doorstep.

Ships plastic-free to mainland GB.

 

Gardening, minus the gatekeeping.

Have a grow. Laura x

 

FAQs

Will these come back next year?
Their biggest, most reliable show is the first spring. Triumph tulips like 'Ile de France' are less dependable at returning than Darwin hybrids — some come back, some fade. If year-after-year returns matter most to you, our Darwin hybrid tulips (like 'Pink Impression') are the better bet. But for a glorious, bold first-spring display, this one's hard to beat.

How big a pot do I need?
At least 25cm (10in) wide, and 25cm+ deep so the tulips have room. A recycled bucket, deep planter or up cycled vintage tin all work well — just make sure it has drainage holes.

What colour are they, exactly?
A pure, intense red — glossy and vivid, the classic bold tulip red rather than a soft or pinkish one.

When do I need to plant it by?
Ideally October or November — bulbs need cold winter soil to root and flower properly. In the UK, later is genuinely fine (right up to early December if the compost isn't frozen). Don't plant in spring — it's too late.

Do you ship to Northern Ireland?
Sadly not — Royal Mail no longer accepts seeds or planting material from Great Britain to Northern Ireland. Mainland GB only.

How does buying this help homeless people?
Every kit funds living wage jobs and horticultural training in Ayrshire, for people overcoming homelessness. You get a beautiful pot of spring tulips; someone else gets a fair job and skills training.

 

 

Grow Guide

Sowing

One variety, one layer — the simplest bulb planting there is.

What you need: a container at least 25cm (10in) wide and deep with drainage holes, peat-free compost, and grit or gravel.

How to plant tulips in pots and containers:

  • Step 1 — drainage. Add a stone over the drainage hole and a few centimetres of grit or gravel in the bottom. Bulbs sitting in cold, wet compost over winter is the one thing that'll finish them off.
  • Step 2 — compost. Part-fill with peat-free compost.
  • Step 3 — plant the bulbs. Set the bulbs on the compost, pointy end up, about 15cm deep and 5–10cm apart. For a full, generous display, pack them closer than you think — tulips look best in a crowd.
  • Step 4 — cover and top off. Cover with compost to around 2.5cm from the top of the pot. A 2.5cm layer of horticultural grit or gravel on the surface tidies it up and stops the compost splashing about in winter rain. It also helps to deter squirrels and mice from digging in the pot and eating your bulbs. If you'd rather not use grit or gravel, you could use winter-flowering annuals, such as violas, to protect the surface of the compost.
  • Step 5 — put it somewhere sheltered. In a sunny corner against your home. Water once if the compost feels dry, then leave it alone until spring. Cold is what your bulbs need over winter — don't bring the pot indoors.

That's it. Nothing to do now until spring.

Feeding & watering

Over winter — barely anything. Rain will do most of the work; check once a month that the compost hasn't dried right out (unlikely in Scotland). Don't overwater — cold, waterlogged compost rots bulbs.

As shoots appear in spring — start watering more regularly, if necessary, when growth is really underway, keeping the compost evenly damp, not soggy.

Feed for next year, not this one. The bulbs already contain everything they need to flower in year one. The feed's real job is helping them build energy for next spring. Sprinkle around half of the comfrey and seaweed from your kit around the base as leaves emerge, and again when the flowers have finished. That's it.

Comfrey is potassium-rich — the exact nutrient bulbs need to build strong, fat bulbs for next year's flowers.

Seaweed meal — The seaweed meal does a different job. It's a broad, gentle source of trace minerals — the micronutrients that keep roots and foliage healthy — and because it breaks down slowly, it feeds without ever scorching the bulb. As the leaves work after flowering, those minerals help the plant pack energy back down into the bulb for next year.

Comfrey for the potassium, seaweed for the trace minerals: between them, a balanced, slow-release feed.

Harvest

There's no harvest exactly (apart from cut flowers) — but there's a real payoff for treating them right.

Deadhead as flowers fade. Snip off spent blooms so the plant feeds the bulb, not seed production. (Leave the stem and leaves.)

Let the leaves die back completely. The one rule most people break. Those green leaves after flowering are recharging the bulb for next year — cut them off early and you starve it. Wait until they've gone yellow and floppy (usually 6+ weeks after flowering), then gently pull them away. Move your pot of finished tulip flowers out of the way if it looks too untidy.

Second year and beyond — the honest bit. Triumph tulips like 'Ile de France' give their biggest, most reliable show in the first spring. Some come back for a second year with good aftercare, but they're less dependable long-term than Darwin hybrid tulips. So treat that first spring as the main event, and anything after as a happy bonus. Deadhead, feed, and let the foliage die back to give them their best chance.

Troubleshooting

None of these means you've failed. Bulbs are pretty forgiving.

  • Shoots appearing early in a mild winter: don't panic and don't cover them — a little frost on the leaves is fine; the flower buds stay tucked down safe.
  • No flowers at all: most often the compost stayed too wet over winter and the bulbs rotted. Drainage and grit are the fix for next time.
  • The odd bulb missing: occasionally one doesn't come up. In a full pot you won't notice.
  • Tulips flopping: they've had it too dry, or they're being knocked about by wind. Move the pot somewhere more sheltered.
  • Squirrels or mice digging: cover the surface with chicken wire until shoots appear.
  • Leaves eaten: slugs love new spring growth — a ring of wool pellets round the base (sold separately) sorts it.

Stuck on something not listed? Message us.

The basics: compost, container & light

New to this? Here's what's true for every kit we sell.

Compost — you supply your own peat-free compost. Any good bag will do. We don't include it (it's heavy, and you may already have some).

Container — almost anything with drainage holes works: an upcycled bucket, a trough, a big pot. No holes means waterlogged roots, so make some if there aren't any. We don't send a planter on purpose — growing in what you've already got is cheaper and greener.

Light — most things want a bright spot: a sunny windowsill, or outside once the weather's kind. Each guide tells you what that plant prefers.

Gardening, minus the gatekeeping. If a step ever reads like jargon, that's on us, not you.
What's in your kit

Your kit contains:

  • 12 Tulip 'Ile de France' bulbs — intense-red Triumph tulips, flowering in mid spring
  • Comfrey and seaweed feed (combined) — for spring feeding to encourage the bulbs back next year
  • A plain English grow guide — the whole thing, minus the jargon
  • Bamboo plant labels — to mark what you've planted

What you supply: a container (at least 25cm wide and deep) with drainage holes, peat-free compost, and grit or gravel.

Everything ships plastic-free. Mainland Great Britain only (Royal Mail rule on planting material to Northern Ireland).

Shipping

We will work quickly to ship your order as soon as possible. Once your order has shipped, you will receive an email with further information. Delivery times vary depending on your location.

Return policy

Our goal is for every customer to be totally satisfied with their purchase. If this isn't the case, let us know and we'll do our best to work with you to make it right.

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